Rosguill Peninsula

Perhaps one of Donegals best kept secrets.

 

The Rosguill Peninsula is a slim finger of rock and sand between Horn Head and Fanad. As you drive in from Carrigart you’ll approach a junction with a right turn leading away up the hill. Take this road and stay on it for some cracking views. Climbing the hill you’ll be able to look down on the village of Downings and with Muckish Mountain looming in the background.

The road will soon sweep round to the right for a few tight turns before opening up to a view of Mulroy Bay, Island Roy and the Harry Blaney Bridge.

 

Soon you’ll come to one of the finest pubs in Ireland:- The Singing Pub. This is a spot to spend a rainy day (and night) if you have the time. The welcome is warm, Guinness superb and they have a talented team in the kitchen banging out great food. Steaks are served on sizzling stone and the seafood selection is as wide as it is fresh.

Across the road from the pub a narrow lane winds down to a very ancient and ruined church. If the scenery of Mulroy Bay has been firing your imagination or early Christianity is your thing then this is well worth the 10 minute detour. The tombstones, solace and views fill you with empathy for the hard but pure life that has been lived here for centuries.

In the graveyard is one the oldest stone crosses I have seen, The Mevagh Cross, rumoured to have St Colm Cille’s finger marks running across its rough weathered face.

Sheep graze above and the waves roll below as you weave your way along the ‘Atlantic Drive’. The folklore for this area is rich. From Fionn mac Cumhaill (Finn McCool, a giant in Irish History) to the tragic Deirdre this area has seen it’s share of drama.

When the road starts to narrow and the sea comes close, a glance over your right shoulder will show you Gainne Mhór and Tra na Rossan Strand, a view rapidly becoming one of the most famous of Ireland.

 

A few miles further will bring you to the Ros Goill Wild Atlantic Way Marker. Perched between the very dramatic Horn Head and Fanad the Marker is in an exceptional position.

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Carry on along the road, you’re in real wild Atlantic Ireland now, round granite hills dressed in heather and streams, wearing shrines like jewellery. Here and there rocky bays give way to tiny strands and sheltered coves, jealously guarded by ancient farmhouses.

You will know you’re coming into the Downings as the the houses start to become more frequent. A left turn dropping down a hill will lead you to the harbour. This is an interesting spot, well used by wreck divers and sport fisherman. An enormous battleship cannon proves testament to this, a present to the community from a grateful dive team and the owner of the SS Laurentic.

Back up the hill to the road, turn right and you’ll pass another great hostelry, The Harbour Bar. A real bar this, where the rocks outside show the years of storms, inside this bar wears the years of craic, banter and the odd heartbreak like a favourite jumper.

You’re now in the village of Na Dunaibh / Downies / Downings. You’ll find a few hotels, restaurants and takeaways. There is a public toilet in the center of town and you can follow the lane to drive onto the beach.

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